Costa Rica, One Taste at a Time: Sunday Morning at the Feria

Various vegetables at the local farmer’s market.

If you’re looking to discover the essence of Costa Rican culture, friendship, and, could we dare say, geography, a visit to the local farmer’s market in San José is a must.

The sun is climbing just above the roofs, a cup of coffee is still warm in your hand, and you’re up early on a Saturday or Sunday. San José’s streets are already humming with life. You drive to Zapote, and follow the crowd to the weekly “feria del agricultor” -the local farmer’s market- and step into one of Costa Rica’s most beloved rituals.

The air is a cocktail of ripe mango, fresh cheese, deep-fried empanadas, and sprinkled with cilantro. It smells like a home-cooked meal, even if you’re standing far away from home.

Your eyes jump between all the eye-catching colors around: towers of bananas from Siquirres, their skin freckled and golden; fist-sized mangoes from Alajuela; massive avocados that could double as rugby balls, most likely from Orotina. Strawberries as sweet as candy? Just in from the slopes of Poás Volcano, where the cool mist allows them to develop their flavor. Pineapples? Count on the northern lowlands for the perfect balance of acid and sweet.

This isn’t your regular faceless supermarket. It’s driven in just before dawn, mostly by the same people who grew it. Farmers across the country -coastal, mountainous, volcanic- bring the land’s diversity right to the heart of the city.

Now, your visit goes beyond just fruits and vegetables. There’s “natilla” (Costa Rican version of sour cream), artisan cheese-filled tortillas, and honey from some rural beekeepers, and a “chilero” (pickled spicy vegetables) that locals swear by. No worries, someone will inevitably hand you a toothpick with a chunk of “palmito” cheese or a slice of the juiciest watermelon you’ve tasted. This is a place of sharing, not just goods, but stories.

“Try this mango” a vendor says, handing you a slice while taking three other customers’ orders. “Best in the season”. It’s silky, tropical sunshine inside your mouth. You look over, and someone else is laughing as they taste a wild-looking fruit for the first time. At the feria, everyone’s a friend -especially if you’re open to tasting.

You’ll notice how people linger. They’re not just shopping, they’re here connecting. Neighbors are chatting about the rain, and people are discussing current affairs. Children tug at their parents for a fresh fruit juice, and vendors have their chant to announce what they have for sale. The feria, as locals call it, is where the “pura vida” lifestyle comes alive.

If you want to feel the pulse of Costa Rica -its generosity, its flavors, its people- don’t miss out on the farmer’s market. Bring a bag and an appetite. However, if you’re not careful, you’ll find yourself at home with a full stomach, a smile across your face, and a bag full of papayas, tamales, some cheese, and an odd-looking fruit whose name you no longer recall. Yet, completely worth it, as food tastes better when grown close, served fresh, and shared with a smile.